Tuesday, February 5, 2013

Travel: Toulouse and Gers

This past weekend I went to Toulouse, France and the surrounding Gers region to visit my daughter Coco who is in school there for three months. With or without a child to visit, I would repeat this weekend any time - we had fun, we relaxed, we shopped, we ate (I had foie gras 4 times!), and we saw so many beautiful things. Here, I'll show you.....

I was a crazy person when I took this picture. I hadn't seen Coco in almost a month, and I had just arrived at her beautiful school, pictured above. I knew she was about to run up the hill and around the corner to find me. Most children casually and quietly walked up to greet their parents, but knowing Coco she would be louder and less reserved (in other words - more American!) than the other children. She did not disappoint. I heard her yelling (at the site of her best friend's parents) before she even came into view. When she saw me she jumped on me, and I surprised myself by bursting into tears. I had to walk around the following tour of the school with red eyes and a red nose!

The chic entrance hall at Coco's school.

I would go back to school if it looked like this, wouldn't you?

A collage in the drawing room. Now I could see why my horse loving daughter felt so at home there.

After our reunion, we drove to Chateau Lartigolle to stay for the weekend. It really is like staying as a guest at an amazing private house. There were 6 families there, and we had casual breakfast and a delicious sit down dinner all together each day. I could have happily spent the whole weekend in the Chateau, but we had shopping to do!

Coco is my constant flea market buddy, and so when Saturday morning arrived, we knew we had to find the best market around. We lucked out - on the first weekend of every month, Toulouse hosts an antiques market in the center of town on the Allées Jules Guesde - we were there on the right day!

I got a kick out of seeing these plates because this was the pattern my mother had when I was growing up. I love how in France they have a special plate just for eating asparagus. French people must have a lot of shelf space!

I am always searching for great military shirts. I didn't buy this one because I already have one that's similar, but I took pictures because I like how pointy the collar is.

Do you know Moynat? They are one of the oldest trunk-makers in France - even older than Vuitton and Goyard. LVMH recently bought it and hired a designer from Hermes to be its Creative Director. It is definitely a brand to watch, and it was fun to see a vintage trunk at the market.

Every kid's dream, right? I would take the Ferrari, whereas Coco wanted to mint-colored convertible at the back.

I should have bought this saddle. I love the red felt mixed with the old leather. It was at the very end of the market, and the rain had started and we were freezing cold. I didn't even ask how much it was. What was I thinking?

A camera is key at any market. It keeps you from buying things you just want to remember. I didn't necessarily need to own these handkerchiefs, but I was blown away by how beautifully they were packaged.

This was my one flea market purchase. I love anything military, and I love how it is actually a collage of sorts - the man's face is a photograph and the scene around it is drawn out and then painted over in places. It was 50 euros. Not bad.

My other regret are these insane dolls' eyes. They were beautifully framed, and one of the most original things I have ever seen. Coco was totally freaked out by them, so we moved on quickly, but I wish I had at least got the man's phone number so I could have tried to get him to ship them to me later.

On the street in the old part of Toulouse - a great mix of old world architecture and new creative energy.

The chicest pharmacy I have ever seen, in Toulouse.


Coco and I went to visit a semi-ruined chateau in Lavardens, about an hour outside of Toulouse. This is the view from the incredibly charming village surrounding the chateau.

Coco at the chateau.

Chateau de Lavardens.

After the Chateau we went to Auch, where Coco wanted to show me the cathedral. I was impressed she wanted to go there again, just to show me. When I was a kid, I was so bored walking around churches and cathedrals - the only part I enjoyed was lighting a candle in honor of someone you love. I guess not much has changed!

On Sunday night our Chateau had the night off from making supper so we drove up into the hills to a tiny place called Auberge du Rantaures. It was very rustic and eccentric, and the wife was the server and the husband was the cook. Every meal was cooked over this open fire. I had sautéed foie gras in an orange sauce and then delicious whole roasted cod.

Our supper cooking over burning logs.

Coco and I having a final twilight ping pong game at the Chateau. She hasn't beaten me yet, but she's getting close!

Wednesday, January 30, 2013

Life on the Farm: SNOW!

When we first came back to England in January, I felt that the gloomy weather might finally get to me. It was grey, wet, and dark for the good part of every day. There had been so much novelty in the fall leading up to Christmas - blackberry season, apple season, the changing of the leaves, the first frost, the first hard frost - and now I just felt like everything was dead, and that it would be a while until new life emerged.

But I was wrong. Right at the beginning of January, I noticed white blossoms on one of the trees in the garden. At first I thought it was just another Old Man's Beard - a wintery eruption of white cotton-like plumes on many of our bushes. But no. These were actual flowers. In January! Then I noticed it at school too - there were yellow blossoms on the branches covering the headmistresses house. And then I saw pink blossoms at a friend's house. Could it be that in England Spring starts in January?

Wrong again. A week later, the entire countryside was covered in a thick white blanket of heavy snow. It snowed hard all day long for three days within a week. School was called off, and Zach and I made snow angels, had a snowball fight, took the dog out for long walks and somehow managed to get to the pub for a cozy festive lunch with all the other school free kids in our village. It was a week of pure magic. It only took one 50 degree day and a rainstorm to wash it all away. But just the morning I noticed the blossoms are out again.

I don't usually have the outside lights on at dawn, but I wanted Zach to see the snow when he woke up in the dark.

Gingy always does a crazy dance when the first snow falls - she scoots around in circles with her tail tucked between her legs. I tried to photograph it but it just came out as a big blur, so here she is once she'd calmed down.

The snow was perfect for angels, but sadly too dry for a snowman.

Petra, coming into the barn to dry off.

The drive to our neighbors' house where we picked up friends on the way to the pub. The car was ice skating all over the road. In fact when leaving the farm I couldn't even see the drive so I just drove straight across the snow covered fields.

The Saturday hunt was on foot, and children were invited to bring toboggans. It was an excellent workout for the parents.

My hunting-on-foot-in-deep-snow look.

Sledding wasn't just for kids.

Our girl Ketchup, knee deep in the snowy mud. 

I make our whole family go on a big walk every Sunday to earn our right to pig out at lunch and then watch a movie in the afternoon.

Gingy having a romp in the snow.

Winter is by far Zach's favorite season. He loves the snow so much. On his day off from school he spent 5 hours outside in the freezing cold just eating snow, following Ginger around and throwing snowballs at the house.

Jack Bauer taking in the winter action.

Petra stretching her legs. When it's really cold "the girls" (our 2 chestnut mares) stay in the barn most of the day, only venturing outside briefly to have a look around.

Eartha's very first day in the snow. When she stepped outside the door she paused, and then carried on with her morning bird stalking.

I photograph the garden shed nearly every day, but this has a good chance of ending up as my favorite.

I hope the honeysuckle survives under there.

Dizzy's first steps into the snow.

Tuesday, January 29, 2013

My Celine ad obsession

While we're on the subject of Juergen Teller, I have been ripping out every S/S'13 Celine ad I see in a magazine and pinning it on my inspiration wall. I love all the Celine ads, but this season's especially resonated with me. I love how Daria's hair is styled like a modern day Slim Keith, and I love the softer more feminine take on minimalism - the leather knot, the spaghetti straps, the draped silk blouses, the loose men's tailored trouser all give me food for sartorial thought. That said, I'm not going to lie to you and say that I loved the fur-lined sandals. They're just not my thing - they remind me of those Adidas pool shoes that serious swimmers wear. But even they, too, work in this inspired context.








Monday, January 28, 2013

Juergen Teller's Kate Moss

You didn't think I was done with Kate Moss, did you? Not even close.

Today Christopher and I are in London for a dinner in honor of Leo Villareal's Light Show at the Hayward Gallery. But first, we decided to have a little afternoon date at the ICA to see Juergen Teller's retrospective. We had lunch at Rose's Bakery on the top floor of Dover Street Market, and then I stopped by Acne to buy a dark grey version of my favorite jeans. After that, we walked down past St James' Palace and along the Mall, and finally reached the ICA to find it closed. It's a freaking Monday!! I should have known better.

In honor of my mishap, I thought I'd have my own Juergen Teller retrospective right here. His portraits of Kate Moss are among my very favorite photos of her. I prefer Kate in minimal makeup, with naturally styled hair, and, as you know from the candids I posted last week, I like her in her own clothes. These pictures seem to capture an authenticity that I suspect gets pretty close to the real Kate. Do you agree?